[Visiting Breweries] 19. Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli, Rich in Lactic Acid Bacteria and Full of Tartness

I traveled to Busan thanks to a sponsorship of train tickets from the 'Find Your Brewery' and 'Naerilro' supporter activity.

It was a trip I was looking forward to, as it was my first train ride in 15 years.

I was disappointed that I couldn't see the station staff selling food from carts, something that was common in the past.

Finally, I arrived at Busan Station.

However, the journey to Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli was still far.

I took the subway and then the bus, traveling for about an hour.

Finally, I arrived.

South Korea's First Makgeolli Food Master

Geumjeongsanseong Tosanju Representative Yoo Cheong-gil

Geumjeongsanseong Tosanju representative Yoo Cheong-gil, a representative of traditional Busan liquor, was designated as the first Makgeolli food master in South Korea by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs on December 3, 2013. He produces Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli using the climate and clean water of the Geumjeongsan mountainside at an altitude of 400m, and makes traditional 500-year-old jokta-style nuruk (yeast starter) himself.

“I was born and raised in the Geumjeongsanseong village and naturally learned how to make nuruk and Makgeolli from my mother (Jeon Nam-seon). Although it requires a lot of effort and time in the manufacturing process, I am producing and distributing Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli with the will to preserve our traditional culture and carry on our taste.”

Source: Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli Website

Not going against nature

Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli, a harmony of tradition and modernity

After systematically researching the scientific analysis of Geumjeongsanseong Yugane Nuruk and the traditional manufacturing method of Sanseong Makgeolli, it was designated as Food Master No. 49 by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs in recognition of its tradition and authenticity.

Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli is brewed with clean air, clean water, and sincerity.

By producing traditional Makgeolli using traditional nuruk and the traditional Dansa-ip method, the combination of natural environment and traditional technology creates a deep and rich flavor, which is a characteristic unique to Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli.

Source: Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli Website

The special value created by the nature of Geumjeongsanseong

Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli, the No. 1 Folk Liquor

Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli is produced in the Geumjeongsanseong village, which boasts a clean environment at an altitude of 400m where the ideal temperature and humidity for brewing are maintained.

It is made in the Geumjeongsanseong village.

Using Geumjeongsanseong Yugane Nuruk fermented in a clean natural environment and 250m of bedrock water, you can experience the authentic taste of traditional Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli. It is a 100% domestic, live rice Makgeolli with an alcohol content of 8%, boasting the best nuruk quality in the country. Because it is brewed with mountain water, it features a subtle aroma and a rich flavor.

Made using the traditional brewing method throughout the manufacturing process, it is the only Makgeolli among many in Korea to be designated as a local folk liquor, holding the title of South Korea's No. 1 folk liquor.

Source: Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli Website

Our pride, Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli, filled with our living history and culture

Although the exact origin of Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli is unclear, it is believed to have originated when farmers in the area began making nuruk as a means of livelihood during the early Joseon dynasty. It became widely known when the construction of Geumjeongsanseong Castle began in the 32nd year of King Sukjong's reign (1706) in preparation for the invasion of Japanese pirates, which led to an influx of outsiders. It is said that the laborers conscripted from various regions to build the castle were so fond of the Makgeolli that they yearned for its taste even after the construction was completed and they returned home.

Following this, Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli became widely distributed throughout Korea, and its reputation grew to the extent that it even reached Manchuria and Japan during the Japanese colonial period.

Particularly during the Japanese colonial era, this Makgeolli, with its unique flavor, became even more well-known, to the point that the grain prices in Busan Dongnae and the eastern part of Gyeongsangnam-do fluctuated depending on the amount of nuruk produced in Geumjeongsanseong Castle, demonstrating its dominance in the market.

From the 1960s, due to the government's ban on nuruk production, it was temporarily subjected to crackdowns as illicit liquor. However, the residents continued to make liquor in secret, avoiding the authorities' scrutiny, thus preserving its lineage. When the traditional folk liquor system was established in 1980, it was designated as the first folk liquor.

Source: Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli Website

Made using the traditional method

Geumjeongsanseong Yugane Nuruk makes good Makgeolli

It's no exaggeration to say that this village is the only remaining nuruk village in Korea; it is located within Geumjeongsanseong Castle in Busan. Being a village within a castle, there wasn't much farmland, nor were there any other major sources of livelihood. Therefore, nuruk became a primary source of income, and the villagers steadfastly protected their nuruk even in the face of restrictions and crackdowns from authorities.

Geumjeongsanseong Yugane Nuruk is not made thick like ordinary nuruk. It is wrapped in a cotton cloth and pressed into a round, flat shape with the feet. This nuruk is then placed on shelves in the nuruk room with straw underneath and left to ferment for about a week, generating heat. Yugane nuruk, when properly fermented, has long been renowned for its high quality.

Source: Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli Website

After receiving a stamp, I was told to go to the factory below to see the nuruk, so I headed there.

When I visited, they showed me a documentary that made it easy to understand Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli.

After watching the documentary, we moved to the area where the nuruk is fermented.

They used to heat it with wood, but now they use briquettes.

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No ingredients other than water are added.

We make our traditional nuruk with the utmost care.

Former President Park Chung-hee is an inseparable figure when it comes to Sanseong Makgeolli. It is said that he loved Makgeolli so much that even after drinking soju, he would have Makgeolli for a palate cleanser. Before the May 16 military coup, President Park, who was the Busan Army Commander, enjoyed drinking Busan Sanseong Makgeolli, which was then illicitly brewed. Later, as President, he legalized Sanseong Makgeolli through a presidential decree. This legalized Sanseong Makgeolli, with the participation of local residents, led to the establishment of a company called 'Geumjeongsanseong Tosanju', which continues to maintain its legacy to this day.

If there was a Makgeolli Purity Law in Korea, similar to the German Beer Purity Law, I believe Sanseong Makgeolli would be the liquor that most closely adheres to it. It preserves the original form of traditional Makgeolli exceptionally well. While most Makgeolli nowadays uses Japanese-style nuruk (Ip-guk) introduced during the Japanese colonial period, Sanseong Makgeolli consistently uses traditional nuruk to brew its Makgeolli. Also, in the past, due to food shortages, and now due to production costs, rice is used to make Makgeolli, which is not commonly used in other Makgeolli production.

Source: Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli Website

Experience Programs

·Field Trip (Reservations for 5 or more people, free of charge)

·Nuruk Making Experience + Field Trip (KRW 15,000/10 people or more)

·Makgeolli Making Experience + Field Trip (KRW 15,000/10 people or more)